'I visited absurdly beautiful island loved by Parisians with £40 UK flights'

VIBE

Many years ago, when people would escape polluted cities to ‘take in the sea air’, the island of Île de Ré is likely what they were after.

And today at the entrance of the port of Saint-Martin-de-Re – the historic capital of the island – lies the chic seaside guesthouse of Hotel De Toiras that would have seen plenty of such fugitives. Like all buildings on the island, its exterior has been shaped by the whims of the

Located on the cobblestone seafront it has painstakingly designed rooms with many stories to tell, much like the hotel’s delightful staff. This charming old style hotel is laid back but precise – French hospitality at its best.

Toiras’ conscientious team oversees 18 rooms and a further handful at Villa Clarisse & Spa, the sister boutique property around the corner.

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STYLE

Historic luxury is certainly the theme of this hotel – in a converted 17th century shipowner’s house. Remarkable suites immerse guests with their striking themes which are rooted in the lives of leading figures from history and literature.

Ornate reproduced pieces go with each theme, and most rooms have a bath and shower, with robes, slippers and a turndown service. Guests can indulge in the range of high-quality toiletries and there is a lounge downstairs to relax with the daily paper or book next to the fire.

“The owners really wanted to put the style of the island, history and their family touch to this hotel,” said general manager Maxence. “We have some clients that are stressed when they check in, and when they leave they are totally relaxed.”

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Villa Clarisse & Spa – which is more contemporary and more polished than the Hotel de Toiras – got its fifth star last year, which means both properties now operate as five-star.

Just a three-minute walk from the Hotel De Toiras, Villa Clarisse & Spa offers a heated outdoor pool and, as the name suggests, a spa – but unfortunately, that was being renovated while we were there.

FOOD AND DRINK

Guests can dine in the mornings and evenings in George’s Restaurant and take an afternoon snack at the wonderful Salon D’Olivia. Prices come with the five-star territory, boasting seasonal menus with a strong, high quality and regional focus.

The colourful vegetables du jour are simply joy on a plate. The beef chuck is rich and comes with a delicious Bearnaise sauce, the Langoustine Royales starter has varied textures and a wasabi kick. For those readers who have a sweet tooth, the star of the show was one of the two desserts on offer, the chocolate, praline and fleur de sal of Il de Re.

It proved to be somehow simultaneously hot, cold and foamy with a wafer heart – you should try it and marvel. The two a la carte gastronomic menus cost €75 and €130.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE

With Ile de Re being less than three hours from the French capital, you will find throngs of Parisians in the summer months.

You can see why – the island is relaxed, tiny but full of things to do – all with an absurdly beautiful backdrop. Il de Re is an oasis of salt, vineyards and sand dunes off the coast of La Rochelle, with a bridge to the mainland only arriving in 1988. It’s very noticeable how the island’s proud residents are so keen to embrace and promote its gifts of salt marshes, potatoes, oysters, vineyards and animals who are the true symbols of this Atlantic outpost.

Poitou donkeys were once an integral part of life on Il de Re, helping with agricultural work and transporting goods between villages. They would often be dressed in hand-crafted striped trousers (mistaken for pyjamas) to protect them from flies in the marshes, but now the shaggy long-eared locals are much more of a rare sight.

The best way to see the island is to cycle between its charming villages, such as La Flotte with its busy food market, or Ars-en-Re, officially one of the most beautiful villages in France, offering antique emporiums.

With a network of cycle paths 60 miles long, you can see the island on two wheels, and feel safe while doing so. Bike hire costs are around €30 a day for electric and €9 for standard.

Take a break from the bike and enjoy lunch in one of the many oyster shacks that line the marshy coast, then chat to the last remaining artisan salt farmers who still use techniques from the Middle Ages in their production.

A DAY OUT

Cross the 1.8-mile bridge by bus or taxi to La Rochelle, a jewel of a city and capital of the Charente-Maritime department.

It’s been a centre for trading and fishing since the 12th century. With its show-stopping Vieux Port (old harbour), it’s a must, along with the modern Les Minimes marina, Hôtel de Ville dating from 1298, half-timbered medieval houses, Renaissance architecture, natural history museum and aquarium.

Book the holiday

• Fly from Bournemouth, Bristol, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Manchester or Stansted to Nantes; or from Belfast International, Bristol, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Glasgow, Manchester and Stansted to Bordeaux.
• Rooms at the Hotel de Toiras in Saint-Martin-de-Re, Ile de Re, France, start at around £273 a night room-only.
• Rooms at the Villa Clarisse & Spa in Saint-Martin-de-Re start at around £303 a night room-only.
• More info at